PEOPLE

There are four pillars in the sustainable study which is People, profit, purpose and planet. It’s undeniable that the pillar PEOPLE is an integral part of sustainability of fashion.

Take ourselves as an example the GEN Z group accounting for a large proportion of nowadays consumer group. Gen Z is currently the second-youngest generation, with millennials before and Generation Alpha after. Like every generation, Gen Z’s behaviors are shaped by how they grew up. Young people today have come of age in the shadow of climate doom, pandemic lockdowns, and fears of economic collapse. The first Gen Zers were born when the internet had just achieved widespread use. They’re called “digital natives”—the first generation to grow up with the internet as a part of daily life. (The A to Z on gen Z (2023) McKinsey & Company.)When Gen Z grow up and have purchasing power, their purchasing decisions will often be influenced by the Internet or social media. Today’s young people’s purchasing consumption is often very different from that of the older generation. They may pay more attention to the appearance of things. This does not mean that they are flashy, but that they pay more attention to their own image like the abbreviation called OOTD and the first impression the leave to others.

Gen Z’s tastes are becoming more and more picky. They not only have high pursuit of the quality of goods, but also have certain requirements for its functions and appearance. So now major brands are doing their best to cater to the tastes of young people and capture their eyeballs and wallets. For example, Nike’s basketball series will be co-branded with some basketball superstars. This is actually using the celebrity effect to attract consumers. Or some big brands will sponsor celebrities’ outfits. When consumers see celebrities’ outfits on social medias, they will follow suit and buy. This can also achieve the goal.

In the Z Generation, Diversity is also a standard for the young to make a choice. Diversity today includes but is not limited to the richness of a brand’s offerings. For example: Generational Diversity, Race and Ethnicity Diversity, Gender and Sexual Orientation Diversity Sexual Appearance Diversity and so on.(Chan, B (2020). All Types of Diversity with Examples. Available at: https://diversity.social/workplace-diversity-types/)For example, UNIQLO has products for various genders and sizes, and like many brands, UNIQLO also attaches great importance to sustainable development and implements it into its products. Isn’t this a manifestation of diversity?

There are many successful brand cases on the market today. The most basic element of a successful brand is the product itself. Such as product design, product price and product quality. The most basic things that often catch consumers’ attention and make them pay are these three points. At the same time, the Gen Z is one of the largest consumer groups today. Some celebrity effects, brand co-branding, and targeted marketing are essential.

Generally speaking, the Gen Z is ushering in a new era. The oldest Gen Z group may be graduate students or already working, and the youngest is already in junior high school. They are people who live at the intersection of the new era and the old era with more advanced ideas, which shows the word PEOPLE is one of the most important pillars in the sustainable study.

The pillar ‘People’ closely focuses on Generation Z’s values on individuality, sustainable development practices and the rise of technological advancements which lead to sustainable consumerism. Gen Z are individuals of our future, born between the year 1995 and 2010, and are considered to “value individual expression, and avoid labels” (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). Gen Z focuses on individuality, as many customise and personalise their style, 10% of this group often try to buy from sustainable brands (Smith, 2010). Moreover, Gen Z has become the most influential group for all generations in relation to consumption and relatability (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). Fashion Network has reported that Generation Z are the largest adapters of gender-fluid fashion, as 58% purchased an item outside of their gender identity. In addition to this, Generation Z are likely to use social media platforms such as TikTok to gain knowledge of the most sustainable, and relatable brands. It is reported that Generation Z’s purchase methods are still similar to Millennials’ as 53% still prefer to shop in physical stores, yet arguably 92% buy on mobile apps which is a higher percentage than any other generation. 

For a brand to be successful it should focus on inclusivity and authenticity. Not only does Generation Z have the largest market share, “Gen Z is more adamant that brands reflect their values, whilst acknowledging their diversity” (BOF, 2023), meaning that companies must share similar values to gain profit and popularity. Generation Z consume brands that prioritise social responsibility and inclusivity, thus many companies have started to give insight on product development and sustainability strategies. Rihanna’s company ‘Savage X Fenty’ is a great example of this, as she includes a diversity of models every campaign. Recently, Shaholly Ayers, a congenital amputee, was featured in ‘Savage X Fenty Vol. 3’ fashion show without a prosthetic. The company also diversifies in skin tone, as it won ‘Times Magazine’s Best Innovation’ in 2017, by creating many skin shades and including many ethnicities. Although society is moving forward, we are still one step behind, as 95.6% of fashion models are still ultra-thin (Vogue Business, 2023). 

Ultimately, digital approaches to product design will lead to an efficient, sustainable, and responsible fashion industry. Designers equipped with 3D skills and discipline skills can create sustainable solutions for product development, this will “optimise ways which we use and produce textiles” (Audric Thomas, Decathlon France). As Generation Z is the future of the industry, Universities must teach about smart textiles and biodegradable materials so polluting effects in fashion are reduced. Knowledge of circular approaches links to sustainable production. However, “certain jobs are likely to disappear due to automation” (World Economic Forum, 2018), which can lead to a loss of careers in the further future. 

Fashion Business consists of the four pillars Planet, People, Profit and Purpose. Through these factors, they contribute to a successful business, in this blog, the People pillar will be introduced. People are an essential factor to consider as they create harmonious relationships with the product. GenZs in particular, are unique as they value creating a strong identity for themselves. “More than any other generation, GenZ collectively demands purpose and accountability, the creation of more opportunities for people of diverse and underrepresented backgrounds, and rigorous sustainable and green practices” (McKinsey & Company, 2023). Hence, this reflects the type of businesses they support. 

Figure 1: Francies, T. and Hoefel, F. (2018) True Gen: Generation Z and its implications for companies 

Technology plays a crucial role in GenZ’s lives and the role of online shopping has been emphasised. However, a big disadvantage is an inability to try on clothes, hence a strategy to attract GenZ is to use virtual try-ons. This can be done through softwares such as Zyler.com which has been adopted by some brands such as Marks & Spencer and John Lewis. Through this, it can help reduce return rates, increasing profit. 

Creating a diverse community has been also crucial in GenZ’s lives. A brand example is Form and Fold, an Australian swimwear brand that caters to women of larger chest sizes ranging from D to G cup sizes. With such brands it helps fill a market gap for this group of women, allowing them to feel included in the fashion community. Next, some key people skills needed for a successful fashion brand include being open-minded and understanding. An example includes touching on their values such as good ethical practices. Through this, brands can modify their tactics to suit GenZ’s needs, generating profit and creating good customer relationships. In conclusion, consumers play an essential role as they determine a brand’s succession and image.

Gen Z, born between 1995 and 2010, is a digitally savvy generation growing up with the internet, social networks, and mobile technology. They excel at gathering and cross-referencing information from various sources, seamlessly blending online and offline experiences (McKinsey 2018). Sustainability in the fashion industry revolves around four pillars: planet, profit, purpose, and people, with a strong emphasis on consumer engagement.

Currently, Generation Z wields a purchasing power estimated at $143 billion (Business Insider).

In fashion, diversity is about creating clothes that cater to different races, categories, age groups and sizes and marketing them in a way that reflects this. For instance, Fenty Beauty, a makeup brand launched by Barbadian actress and singer Rihanna in 2017, has gained recognition as one of TIME’s 25 Best Inventions. It is celebrated for its high quality, affordability, and inclusive initiative of offering a range of forty foundation shades. This effort is particularly lauded for catering to a diverse spectrum of skin tones, addressing a common concern of prominent beauty vloggers. MAC Cosmetics is one of the first brands to offer a range of foundation and eye shades for various complexions. The MAC Studio Fix and other products from the brand are always made to give diversity a high priority.

54% of Gen-Z says social media influences them more than any other marketing channel  (CMO Council). And 52% of Gen-Z trust social media influencers for product or brand advice. (McKinsey & Company). The global Social Commerce Market, valued at $89.4 billion in 2020, is projected to reach $604.5 billion by 2027, signifying the profound impact of social media (The Influencer Marketing Factory). Burberry effectively utilizes Facebook and Instagram to engage its audience. They showcase professional, stylized images on Facebook and employ hashtags like #ThisIsBrit to promote products and events. On the other hand, Instagram features more casual and user-generated content, immersing followers in London culture.

Zara boasts an impressive social media following, with 51.59 million Instagram and 30.5 million Facebook followers. Their strategy relies heavily on influencer marketing, leveraging famous Instagram personalities to showcase their products, creating consumer interest with minimal paid advertising.

In summary, Gen Z’s digital fluency, the importance of diversity in fashion, and the dominance of social media underscore the ever-evolving landscape of consumer engagement and brand promotion.

Reference

Francis, T., & Hoefel, F. (2018). True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies. McKinsey & Company, 12, 1-10.

https://theinfluencermarketingfactory.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/social-commerce-report.pdf

https://www.forbes.com/sites/blakemorgan/2020/02/28/50-stats-all-marketers-must-know-about-gen-z/

https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/fashion-brands-on-instagram

https://www.paceco.com/content/luxury-fashion-brands-social-media/

Among the 4 pillars, “People” establishes a more profound relationship between consumer individuals and the fashion industry.  By exploring this pillar, impacts on the society can be analyzed, while discover how fashion brands can be successful in the long term, with regards to the consumption habits of generation Z. 

The Generation Z, which comprises the world’s population born between 1996 and 2010 (McKinsey & Company, 2023), is the second youngest generation right after Gen Alpha. With daily lives surrounded by the internet, they are also known as the “digital natives” (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). As climate anxiety arises, Gen Zers are influenced to develop strong values regarding green practices, hence gaining the habit of preferring brands with sustainability commitments as well as social ethics. 

Despite Gen Z’s zeitgeist of possessing uniqueness and trend chasing habits may occasionally overcome ethical concerns, this generation still holds progressive ideology towards climate change, people of diverse and underrepresented genders etc. Francis and Hoefel (2018) pointed out that the identification among the ethics of a brand, its partners or suppliers, and the company that owns it can be confused by Gen Zers. As profoundly-conscious consumers, they won’t be fooled when a brand isn’t making real efforts to act upon ethical claims. Therefore, in order to attract them, brands’ actions and ideals must form coherence and infiltrate through all stakeholders.

Vivienne Westwood has gone viral over the past few years, especially among Gen Zers. As shown on Fig 1, Westwood’s official website demonstrated the brand’s execution of its sustainable beliefs, in terms of preferred low-impact textiles, sustainable packaging, total transparency of supply chain and activism to campaign for a better world. 

Under “preferred materials”, the brand listed out the sources of all textiles used. For example, in 2022, Westwood introduced wool certified by NATIVA™. (nativapreciousfiber.com/), every step of the supply chain from farm to production is displayed (Fig 2). Currently, all wool used in the brand is 100% mulesing-free (viviennewestwood.com). Providing these information to consumers 

As the foundation of society, effective governance, safeguarding human rights, and sustainable development serve as the four pillars of sustainability defined by the London College of Fashion （Intro To Briefing 23 week 1). “Earth” is to be examined as the second pillar. The importance of decreasing social inequality is one of the pillars of sustainable development that is most frequently emphasized. Nevertheless, nobody has the right to make us buy anything or define who we are for us. This is especially true in the fashion business, where many individuals describe your skin tone, body size, gender, and aesthetics in ways that are not as inclusive as they need to be. Prettiness is not solely physical appearance but is connected to emotions and feelings (Raghuram, 2023).  

People who belong to Generation Z were born between 1996 and 2010 (McKinsey 2018).  Gen Z are the first generation to be “true digital natives” (Francis and Hoefel, 2018), and many of them have achieved influence online.  In many areas, Generation Z is acknowledged as the primary Internet user for product research and development and new product purchases. Generation Z differs from previous generations in that they want to stand out over blend in, dislike unflattering clothing, and have incredibly adaptable fashion senses. A third of the world’s population is made up of members of Generation Z, according to figures from 2023 about this generation. 

In order to appeal to Generation Z, a brand must have a compelling narrative or distinctive style as well as a commitment to sustainability. Generation Z is a generation that upholds values and expects the same from merchants. Social media may also be used because Generation Z is exposed to advertising and companies “every minute of every day” (McKinsey 2018). Instagram, TikTok, and other prominent platforms are utilized by Generation Z and may be used to swiftly appeal to them because so many influencers use social media. 

https://www.thirdlove.com/blogs/learn/8-reasons-our-signature-thirdlove-24-7-classic-t-shirt-bra-is-perfect-for-all-breast-shapes-sizes

Lingerie company ThirdLove has a brand that perfectly reflects variety. The company produced bras in 78 different sizes. To accommodate a wider range of skin tones, ThirdLove now provides a selection of “nude” hues. ThirdLove features real women of different origins, shapes, and ages in product photographs and marketing campaigns. Heidi Zak, CEO of ThirdLove, says in the advertisements, “We’re done with pretending certain sizes don’t exist or aren’t important enough to serve. And please stop insisting that inclusivity is a trend. And please stop insisting that inclusivity is a trend.” 

There are also many brands that are starting to plan for diversity, with Fenty Beauty launching 40 foundation colors to give all skin tones a choice. 

Reference list:  

McKinsey & Company, (2023) “What is Gen Z?” 

Raghuram, S. (2023b) The Psychological Effects Of Fashion On Body Image And Self-Esteem, Fashion Law Journal. Available at: https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-psychological-effects-of-fashion-on-body-image-and-self-esteem/ (Accessed: October 13, 2023). 

Generation Z Statistics 2023 (2021) TrueList. Available at: https://truelist.co/blog/generation-z-statistics/ (Accessed: October 14, 2023). 

“People” is one of the significant pillars of fashion sustainability study. The fashion industry is moving towards being more socially responsible and actively pursuing sustainable practices, those industry participants play an important role in sustainability development. This pillar emphasizes people who are involved should have fair welfare, a safe environment, and ethical treatment. (Londrigan and Jenkins, 2018, pp.48) While considering diversity and inclusion, that should not be stuck in a frame, which can include a wide range of perspectives. 

First of all, as described from McKinsey & Company “Gen Z are called “digital native”—the first generation to grow up with the internet as a part of daily life.” (McKinsey, 2023) As Bo Finneman mentioned in the interview Gen Z have different value from previous generations. (Finneman, Spagnuolo, and Rahilly, 2020) This new generation is more care about self-expression. Finneman proposed that Gen Z “want to be themselves and that’s where they find their security.” (Finneman, Spagnuolo and Rahilly, 2020) Take buying fashion items as an example, they always looking for something special and can represent themselves. However, in previous generations who consider the garment they choose to represent the brand rather than themselves. 

Due to the development of society, Gen Z seems like born with screen-social talent and curiosity about new things. An interview with McKinsey mentioned that Gen Z has an idiosyncrasy which is seeking truth, and is always willing to spend money on something that they believe. (Finneman, Spagnuolo, and Rahilly, 2020) If a brand appearance has a unique and true IP story behind the brand, that would be highly attractive to a consumer group of Gen Z. 

Also, Gen Z always are drawn attention to new things. For example, in earlier days, a London local designer brand called “Jaded London”, posted an event on Instagram about their pop-up shop. Many of their fans or passers-by visit their shops with curiosity.

Rihanna’s Fenty brand is a wonderful example of behavior toward diversity, in an article mentioned quote about Rihanna said, “The only thing I could think about was including everyone”. (McKinnon, 2021) Her brand Savage X Fenty uses unusual forms that invite different types of models to show off products. For instance, pregnant or lactating mother, older, plus-sized. Each of them represents the products of diverse collections, that let people believe in diverse services not just lip advertise. 

Reference list：

Finneman, B., Spagnuolo, E. and Rahilly, L. (2020). Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of shopping | McKinsey. [online] www.mckinsey.com. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping#/ [Accessed 13 Oct. 2023].

Londrigan, M.P. and Jenkins, J.M. (2018). Fashion supply chain management. New York: Fairchild Books, An Imprint Of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc, pp.41–60.

McKinnon, T. (2021). How Rihanna’s Fenty Brand is Leading in Diversity & Inclusion. [online] Indigo9 Digital Inc. Available at: https://www.indigo9digital.com/blog/fentydiversityinclusion [Accessed 13 Oct. 2023].

McKinsey (2023). What is Gen Z? | McKinsey. [online] www.mckinsey.com. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z [Accessed 13 Oct. 2023].‌

Regarding the ongoing strive towards a sustainable fashion eco-system, organically, people are inherent to its progression. As an industry that is underpinned by people – operationally and as the driving force, it is fundamental that there must be equal consideration towards the essentiality and significance of people as there is regarding profit and ecological responsibility. Navigating a climate that operates to meet impending and dynamic consumer demand and needs, this pillar underlines the simultaneous need for humanity and integrity through diversity, inclusion and ethical performance.

Born between 1995 and 2010, Generation Z have extensively impacted the prevailing landscape of the fashion industry. Positioned as a metaphorical mouthpiece for sustainability with rhetoric that upholds unprecedented values, “Gen Z collectively demands purpose and accountability, the creation of more opportunities for people of diverse and underrepresented backgrounds, and rigorous sustainable and green practices” (McKinsey, 2023). The targeting of Gen Z is becoming increasingly challenging for businesses as their outlook on consumption differs from the preceding generations as they demand consumption in the form of access, expression of identity and as a matter of ethical concern (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). 

The market position of a brand is now reliant upon their ability to fulfil the demands and values of Gen Z consumers – transparency and traceability, purpose, sustainability and a brand narrative are amongst those. Ultimately, Gen Z are chasing “emotional connection” as they look “beyond tangible products” and attempt to understand “what is it that makes the company tick” (Finneman, 2020). Brands must rethink how they innovatively deliver value and are able to connect with their consumers, physically demonstrating the parallel of Gen Z’s rhetoric to attract them. Thus, brand transparency and traceability are imperative. Moreover, there is amplified attention towards the narrative of brands and the concept of authenticity, implemented by shifting from an omnichannel strategy to omnipresent. Gen Z are discerning, only buying into brands that they find pride in sporting and being associated to, upholding a sense of eco-indulgence (Finneman, 2020). 

Promising a commitment to transparent authenticity, anti-greenwashing and responsibility (WGSN, 2023), Ganni is becoming increasingly influential and a forerunner in this evolving ecosystem, setting precedents for other brands to ensue. Regarding their DEI efforts, Ganni are “working on making Diversity and Inclusivity ‘business as usual’” throughout the business’ recruitment process, campaigns and work culture (Ganni, 2021) – ensuring representation for all stakeholders. Furthermore, their social consciousness towards size inclusivity is evident, offering RTW products in a range from 32-52 EU (Ganni, 2021).

McKinsey (2023) What is gen Z? – mckinsey & company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/featured%20insights/mckinsey%20explainers/what%20is%20gen%20z/what-is-gen-z.pdf

Francis, T. and Hoefel, F. (2018) ‘true gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies#/

Figure 1. McKinsey (2018) Delivering Through Diversity. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies#/. 

Finneman, B. (2020) Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of Shopping, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping

Saunter, L. (2023) Brand Case Study: Ganni, WGSN login. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/insight/article/64b7eb850317f2eeaa03373e#page1

Ganni (2021) People: Culture goals, GANNI RESPONSIBILITY REPORT 2021. Available at: https://responsibilityreport2021.ganni.com/culture-goals/