Rebecca Kilcoyne

One of the fundamentals of the fashion industry is to empower prosperity, by simultaneously harnessing the planet and generating value. As it stands today, the $1.53 trillion industry excels in multiple sectors (Statista 2022) and continues to increase year by year. In order to maintain a successful business, designers are faced with the challenge of creating items that not only show their artistic and creative abilities, but also cater and will appeal to the many fashion sectors and their individual markets. The aim is to present products that are accessible and attractive. This is ensured through all stages of a garment’s life, from the production of the textiles right through to fashion shows and selling the goods. McKinsey reports that revenue increased by 21 percent in 2020-2021. They believe that the luxury sector will outperform in terms of success when compared to the rest of the industry, as consumers who are willing to spend continue to do so, sheltered from the effects of hyperinflation. (McKinsey) Versatility and sustainability are huge factors when looking at how a brand can remain competitive during times of economic uncertainty. Having two contrasting price brackets of products, H&M can garner profits from both consumers that are willing to purchase their more premium clothing, alongside those on a budget with their regular line. In doing so, a jacket from H&M can cost anywhere from £24.99 to £479.99, hence during uncertain economic times, the brand can benefit from those even on low budgets, so profit can flourish under any circumstance. During Karl Lagerfeld’s time at Fendi and Chanel, he re-defined certain garment’s identities, making the consumer see them in a different light in order to change the target market and thus increasing sales. For example, prior to joining Fendi, fur was seen as a luxurious and heavy depiction of a rich lady as to which Lagerfeld turned around into a light and playful material, completely transforming the persona of the garments. Bridging the gap between creativity and commerce is complex and requires extensive product and consumer knowledge. Karl Lagerfeld’s masterclass in transforming a brand’s identity can be seen as an excellent example of this. (Mitterfellner, 2023). Through recognising and analysing growth, along with respecting the ecosystem, a brand can grow profits exponentially as consumers in today’s age are ever-conscious of where their money is going and the brands they decide to support. 

Providing a positive relationship between brand and consumer has proved to be of high importance in the age of the Gen-Z consumer. With transparency, sustainability and diversity being at the forefront of what they are investing their values in most, those are the principles that brands need to take on if they plan on appealing to and attracting their target market.

Gen-Zers grew up in the digital age, with the access to the internet being a regular occurrence. With this, came the ability to research further how they spend their money and where exactly it goes. The values that lie behind the big brand names they choose to invest in suddenly became important and they turn to online sources to gain information about a product prior to purchasing. With researching the ethics and messaging behind a brand, they ensure they are funding organisations that align with their own views and morals. (The A to Z on gen Z (2023) McKinsey & Company). Now more than ever, a brand’s transparency and honesty matter.

In 2021, sportswear company Nike succesfully adapted to diversity with the release of their “FlyEase’’ shoe range. Developed alongside those from the disability community, it featured designs with accessible features that make getting dressed that little bit easier (Nike.com). For a brand of Nike’s size and influence, it was a smart and admirable release, as it attracted the attention of those seeking diversity in the market.

As the fashion industry is a fast-paced and ever-changing landscape, it’s fundamental that the people behind the brands possess certain skills in order to be succesful and run smoothly. When entrepreneurs find themselves starting a brand, they open themselves up to meeting lots of different people and travelling to other countries in order to expand and grow as a company. This requires them to be highly organised and coordinate, as any errors could result in them losing sales, customers, or relationships within the industry. (Dillon, S. (2018) The Fundamentals of Fashion Management).  Alongside this, fashion brands must also stick to their roots when it comes to their morals. Being transparent about where their products come from in order to maintain their customer base is vital in the age of the gen-z consumer.

When it comes down to operating in a sustainable and ethical manner in fashion, we can look to the pillar of planet. The aim is to keep finite resources in closed loop, considering that the fashion industry is a major contributor to world pollution and climate change, this should be promptly prioritised.

‘’More than USD 500 billion of value is lost every year due to clothing underutilisation and the lack of recycling.’’(Ellen MacArthur Foundation)

There are many local and large-scale solutions to this issue, which include pushing towards a circular fashion economy. This system can be defined as regenerative, aiming to circulate garments for as long as possible before returning them safely to the biosphere at the end of their lifetime.  There are three key principles of circular fashion: keeping clothes in use, using renewable and safe materials, and up-cycling. These principles minimise waste along with reducing resource depletion.

Sustainability in regard to fashion involves prioritising quality over quantity, in attempts to prolong the lifespan of the garment preventing unnecessary waste. It has the potential to reconstruct the fashion sector at its core, conditioning everyone working in the industry along with everybody who comes into contact with fashion and textiles. (Fashion & Sustainability, K. Fletcher & Lynda Grose. 2012). By encouraging individuals to shop pre-loved garments, along with repurposing, repairing and recycling the clothes they already own, sustainability in fashion gains popularity and contributes to the UN’s sustainable development goal (SDG) of Production and Consumption.

Vivienne Westwood

Westwood was an English fashion designer and businesswoman. She paved the way for modern punk and new-wave fashions, carrying them into the mainstream. She began designing in 1971, alongside her partner Malcolm McLaren, hence the Vivienne Westwood brand was formed in London in 1981.

Vivienne Westwood’s commitment to sustainability is prominent, with its use of images and slogans on clothing that address environmental and social issues in today’s society. “Climate change is my priority, not fashion,” she told The Guardian magazine in 2014. The following year, she appeared dressed up as a tank outside the Prime Minister’s office during a demonstration against shale gas extraction in London. 

The style of the brand is known as “New Romantic”, with her designs being taken from the pages of history books and changed where she found it was necessary. She influenced the wave of ‘90s fashion through rebelling against the typical rules. Her clothing often features heavy materials such as wool, tartan and tweed and her designs are generally recognised by their lavish use of fabric. These, along with her wild combinations of colours and patterns, is what makes the look of Vivienne Westwood’s collections distinctive.

Vivienne Westwood continues to be an influential and respected figure in the fashion world. Known for her unique and daring designs, as well as her dedication to sustainability and activism, two important factors when it comes to the appeal of a brand in today’s fashion world.