Xinli Kang

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PURPOSE

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The purpose of something, in terms of fashion, can be defined as the reason for which a brand or a product is created. This pillar embodies a brand’s values, philosophy and culture which all originate from the most fundamental question — Why exist?

A brand’s philosophy comprises of mission, vision and value proposition. As the global consumption progress into Gen-Z-dominated, the shift in consumer’s values could potentially result in unadapted, ineffective marketing strategies. In a podcast from Mckinsey (2020), Finneman stated that Gen Z are “looking beyond tangible products”, in comparison to Gen X who say “I make a decision based on pure value or lower cost.” 

It is crucial that businesses establish clear standpoint on political and social matters, given that Gen Z behold serious attention towards social and environmental ethics, as well as authenticity. According to Curry (2020), a 2018 survey from DoSomething shows that 67% of respondents would stop or consider to stop purchasing if a business engages in something conflicting with its values. As a result, businesses can no longer just scratch the surface with simply public statements, but actually invest in structural changes up to a level where Gen Zers consider them as “authentic”. Therefore, in order to engage in deeper connections with this generation, it’s necessary for marketers to promote authentic brand philosophy, delivered to consumers through transparent and sincere actions.

When it comes to delivering a brands’s purpose to Gen Z via social media, it’s hard to not mention TikTok, an app with 100 million active users in the U.S alone each month (Wilson, 2021). On this platform, infusing branded content into normal users’ content so they’re often indistinguishable could be a great advantage for those brands and influencers in partnerships. Case in point: Alix Earle, a young influencer who owns over 5 million followers, most known for her “Get Ready With Me” videos (Balis, 2023). Link on Alix’s TikTok profile directs users to website displaying her “personal favourites” (Fig 6&7), mostly beauty products. In relation to what Alix appeals to Gen Z — approachable and authentic, this new trend of obscure advertising has proven to be profoundly effective in attracting Gen Z consumers. Other than finding the most engaged influencer that resonates with the brand, marketers should also utilize advanced technology e.g algorithms to deliver brand philosophy, brand content and brand culture to consumers.

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  1. khaled: good

PROFIT

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Like all industries around the globe, the fashion industry is driven by profit when unveiled to the very core, despite of its artistic, cultural, glamorous appearance. In fact, even sustainable fashion brands have to admit, that without profit as one of their fundamental aims, ethical claims will be difficult to realise as profit guarantees the satisfaction of other stakeholders.

As stated in Mckinsey’s State of Fashion report (2017), the fashion industry would be the “world’s seventh-largest economy if ranked alongside individual countries’ GDP”. There is no doubt on this industry’s contribution to the global economy, with revenue of the apparel market worldwide reaching 1.74 trillion U.S dollars in 2023, as shown on Fig 1. Despite the unsurprising decline from 2020 to 2022 due to the global pandemic, estimations on the future revenue growth from 2023 shows an escalating trend.

According to Fig 2, the global fast fashion market was estimated to worth approximately $123 billion dollars in 2023. With an ascending trend, this market is forecasted to reach $184 billion dollars in 2027.On the other hand, many luxury brands experienced negative influences from global inflation as well as post-pandemic economic declines. However, LVMH has reported “20 percent revenue growth to €56.5 billion” compared to the year before (Mckinsey & Company, 2023). Indication here is that consumers with higher income tend to remain loyal to luxury brands with premium quality and services while “value-conscious consumers are trading down into value” (Mckinsey & Company, 2023). In order to increase competitiveness, brands in downfall should consider flexible pricing strategies based on consumption habits, introduce digitalisation for promotion, effective inventory management and reallocate labour resources. 

Creative directors in a fashion brand beholds multiple responsibilities and job roles. According to Mitterfellner and Olga (2023), it is their duty to not only lead fashion designers, but to have artistic visions, ensure collections generate good profitability, and to be the brand’s ambassador. An example of bridging between creativity and commerce would be Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel (Mitterfellner & Olga 2023). He was always greatly celebrated and shown as the face of the brand. His contribution to Chanel, other than avant-garde designs and professional management, was being a classic, charismatic persona that continually encourages consumers’ desire for Chanel even after his death. It is fair to say that Karl integrated his iconic image as a designer, into commercial aims of the business.

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People

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Among the 4 pillars, “People” establishes a more profound relationship between consumer individuals and the fashion industry.  By exploring this pillar, impacts on the society can be analyzed, while discover how fashion brands can be successful in the long term, with regards to the consumption habits of generation Z. 

The Generation Z, which comprises the world’s population born between 1996 and 2010 (McKinsey & Company, 2023), is the second youngest generation right after Gen Alpha. With daily lives surrounded by the internet, they are also known as the “digital natives” (Francis & Hoefel, 2018). As climate anxiety arises, Gen Zers are influenced to develop strong values regarding green practices, hence gaining the habit of preferring brands with sustainability commitments as well as social ethics. 

Despite Gen Z’s zeitgeist of possessing uniqueness and trend chasing habits may occasionally overcome ethical concerns, this generation still holds progressive ideology towards climate change, people of diverse and underrepresented genders etc. Francis and Hoefel (2018) pointed out that the identification among the ethics of a brand, its partners or suppliers, and the company that owns it can be confused by Gen Zers. As profoundly-conscious consumers, they won’t be fooled when a brand isn’t making real efforts to act upon ethical claims. Therefore, in order to attract them, brands’ actions and ideals must form coherence and infiltrate through all stakeholders.

Vivienne Westwood has gone viral over the past few years, especially among Gen Zers. As shown on Fig 1, Westwood’s official website demonstrated the brand’s execution of its sustainable beliefs, in terms of preferred low-impact textiles, sustainable packaging, total transparency of supply chain and activism to campaign for a better world. 

Under “preferred materials”, the brand listed out the sources of all textiles used. For example, in 2022, Westwood introduced wool certified by NATIVA™. (nativapreciousfiber.com/), every step of the supply chain from farm to production is displayed (Fig 2). Currently, all wool used in the brand is 100% mulesing-free (viviennewestwood.com). Providing these information to consumers 

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PLANET

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It is generally assumed that by the year 2050, the humanity would require 3 planets to employ adequate natural resources for the fashion industry, which beholds serious responsibilities for the accelerating exploitation and damage of atmosphere, animals, forests, water, as well as human beings. 

Circular economy is considered a valid solution regarding making better use of resources, although its effectiveness remains controversial. The purpose of this model is stated as to minimise resource exploitation, maximise waste prevention, while restore and regenerate the environment (Velenturf, A. P., & Purnell, P. 2021. Principles for a sustainable circular economy). However, some have argued that under certain practices, e.g waste to energy process, it not only contributes to higher carbon emissions, but could potentially destroy resources that could be recycled, resulting in the economy being more dependent on raw inputs rather than achieving better recycling (European Commission. 2017. The role of waste-to-energy in the circular economy). 

Sustainability, by definition, is to meet the present needs while retaining sufficient resources for future generations. The fashion industry is known as the second most polluting industry around the globe. Only around 1% of products is currently recycled to achieve sustainability (Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu. 2018. Sustainable Fashion). However, as end customers arise awareness to sustainability in their purchasing habits, e.g preferring environmentally friendly packaging or products made by sustainable materials, sustainability is no longer just “nice to have” but critical to businesses (Tamara Charm, Andre Dua, Kelsey Robinson. 2022. Rise of the inclusive, sustainable consumers). Achieving sustainability in fashion can be disassembled into 4 aspects: Maintain. Reuse. Remanufacture. Recycle. Vivienne Westwood is a brand that values sustainability, by introducing low-impact textiles in its designs and using 100% sustainable merino wool for its entire 2022SS collection.

The UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) comprises 17 goals in relation to the economy, environment and social development, which are aimed to be achieved by 2030. Among these goals, responsible consumption and production potentially has a closer relation with the fashion industry, as it aims to decouple economic growth from resource use (UN 2023, The Sustainable Development Goals Report). Hence, an alternative path for the fashion economic development is required to pursue this SDG. For instance, encouraging second-hand trends, or reselling excess raw inputs, which would reduce the industry’s resource usage.

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My favourite brand

My favourite brand

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Balenciaga

Balenciaga is a French luxury brand that beholds a unique style in the fashion industry, most recognised for its ability to break through traditional fashion concepts with emphasised silhouettes and creative textiles. The brand was created by Cristóbal Balenciaga and managed by Kering from 2001 until now. It offers a selection of products including men and women’s ready-to-wear, leather products, shoes, perfumes and accessories etc. 

Although Balenciaga is most known for its high-street luxury vibe nowadays, it is the result of experiencing a huge change of style in 2015 when the new designer, Demna, joined the brand. As the Z-generation became an important customer group in the market, this new style has made Balenciaga became a highly influential industry benchmark, despite some controversial opinions regarding it’s designs being too “unusual” or “only made for runways”

As the Balenciaga grows into what it is now, its public reputation had certainly experienced many ups and downs. For example, the burst on social media as Kanye West expressed his anti-semitic attitude in public, when he had just finished his runway show for Balenciaga. However, Balenciaga made an immediate response declaring that the brand has terminated their contract and will not collaborate with him again in the future. 

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