Scarlett Cook

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The 4 Pillars of Sustainability: Purpose

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As indicated in one article from Forbes, brand philosophy refers to how businesses define themselves, or how they exist. A brand’s existence is determined by its identity development and how this is communicated to consumers (Silva 2020). In another Forbes article it states how your brand must have a voice. Every action and communication from your business, whether through email marketing, social media posts, or blogs, carries a significant influence. Consistency is key when presenting content to consumers, ensuring that it constantly reflects the brand’s distinctive voice, establishing a personal connection with the audience (Meyer 2018). 

In a podcast from McKinsey (2020), it is shown how there seems to be a shift in generations in terms of how value is delivered to a consumer. Previously, a product’s quality and price were considered the two most important factors by customers; however, Gen Z are now looking for something more. Bo Finneman states “They’re looking beyond tangible products and actually trying to understand what is it that makes the company tick. What’s its mission? What’s its purpose? And what is it actually trying to build for us as a society?” This statement refers to Generation Z and their desire to gain a deeper understanding of a company they are investing in, one that extends beyond the price and quality of a garment. 

For brands to establish their philosophies, they first must gain an understanding of who their target audience is. It is then up to brands to communicate their values through content that speaks to the consumer. It is also important for businesses to understand communication and shopping channels for their correct audience. For example, despite Gen Z being tech savvy, data from a report by Drapers (see figure 1 below) shows that 53% of generation Z prefer shopping in physical stores. In contrast, only 34% express a preference for online shopping (desktop), and a measly 13% want to shop on a mobile device. (Morgan 2023) 

[Figure 1] The A to Z of Gen Z and millennials: understand the next generation of consumers, Morgan. J (2023) 

Reference List: 

Finneman. B, (2020), Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of shopping, McKinsey & Company, https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping, Accessed: 27/10/23  

Meyer. E, (2018), How To Connect With Your Audience And Authentically Communicate Your Brand, Forbes, https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2018/08/06/how-to-connect-with-your-audience-and-authentically-communicate-your-brand/?sh=cbe4a6773932, Accessed: 27/10/23  

Morgan. G, (2023), The A to Z of Gen Z and millennials: understand the next generation of consumers, Drapers, https://www.drapersonline.com/insight/analysis/the-a-to-z-of-gen-z-and-millennials-understand-the-next-generation-of-consumers, Accessed: 27/10/23 

Silva. P, (2020), Why Philosophy Has Much To Do With Brand-Building (And What That Looks Like), Forbes, https://www.forbes.com/sites/piasilva/2020/11/19/why-philosophy-has-much-to-do-with-brand-building-and-what-that-looks-like/?sh=241c5efe71f9, Accessed: 27/10/23 

[Figure 1] The A to Z of Gen Z and millennials: understand the next generation of consumers, Morgan. J (2023), https://www.drapersonline.com/insight/analysis/the-a-to-z-of-gen-z-and-millennials-understand-the-next-generation-of-consumers Accessed: 25/10/23 

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The 4 Pillars of Sustainability : Profit

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As established in previous discussions, the foundations of sustainability revolve around four key pillars. This blog post delves into the “profit” pillar, aiming to share valuable insights about the fashion industry’s dimensions and its various sectors. It explores how brands maintain competitiveness in times of economic uncertainty and how creative directors congregate the gap between creativity and commerce. 

According to Statista’s 2023 Fashion eCommerce analysis, world-wide, fashion is the second largest industry for business-to-consumer eCommerce. Globally, its size was estimated at $768.7 billion in 2023. A total market size of US$1,103.3 billion is expected by 2027, growing at 9.45% per year. 

Following an 18-month period of strong growth, the fashion industry is now suffering from high inflation and unhappy customers. There was a slowdown in growth in 2022 and it is expected to continue in 2023. Based on McKinsey’s analysis (McKinsey and Company 2022) the luxury fashion sector is predicted to perform well in areas such as the US and China. Due to currency rates and the energy crisis, Europe will not be able to achieve the same results. For the non-luxury fashion market, 2023 looks challenging. Sales growth is anticipated to be slow with figures as low as -2 and +3 percent. The market in Europe is expected to shrink between 1 and 4 percent. A growth rate of 2 to 7 percent is expected in China and the US. Inflation also affects these predictions and forecasts, which may lead to a more negative effect on the sector than originally thought. 

As global uncertainties and risks increase, fashion industry leaders should closely monitor political factors in the regions where they manufacture and market their products. To navigate shifting conflicts, fiscal policies, and government regulations, they should have rapid risk management plans in place. When assessing both new and established foreign markets, it’s crucial for them to think critically about their geographical presence, going beyond just growth prospects. The influence of a globally interconnected and vocal customer base means that brands can no longer remain neutral on political issues (McKinsey and Company 2022). 

As a creative director within a fashion house the role involves responsibility for defining the brand’s vision and establishing its marketing strategy. Beyond this creative responsibility, they must also generate revenue for the company. Despite creative talent, if figures don’t impress, the role will be swapped out for someone else (Mitterfellner. O, 2023). To bridge the gap between creativity and commerce, creative directors must collaborate within the value system despite the potential disparity. This collaborating is possible if different roles in the organization understand the pressures they face. Fashion executives must prioritize partnering with their consumers. Consumers bring their unique perspective on the connection between creativity and value for money through their purchase choices. (Crook. J, 2017). 

Josh De Souza Crook, (2017), Compelling Fashion Business: Bridging The Divide Between Creative Vision And Commercial Reality, https://www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/london-college-of-fashion/stories/compelling-fashion-business-bridging-the-divide-between-creative-vision-and-commercial-reality, Accessed: 21/10/23 

McKinsey & Company, (2022), The State of Fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather, https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion, Accessed: 21/10/23 

Statista, (2023), Fashion eCommerce: market data & analysis, https://www.statista.com/study/38340/ecommerce-report-fashion/, Accessed: 21/10/23 

[Cover Image] Cuong Dam, Inflowing Backstage, Accessed; 21/10/23, Available: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/24136547997240356/ 

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  1. khaled: Perfect

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The 4 Pillars: People

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The four pillars of sustainability are: People, Profit, Purpose and Planet, providing valuable guidance for fashion businesses striving to adopt ethical and sustainable practices. This blog will focus on the people pillar, which emphasizes diversity, inclusion, ethical working conditions, generational differences, and interpersonal communication skills. 

Gen Z exhibits distinct consumer behaviours compared to other generations, particularly millennials. Luxury, as (A. Spagnuolo, 2020) notes, takes on various meanings based on both individual perspectives and generational contexts. Gen Z seeks unique items that distinguish them without requiring couture extravagance; they value knowledge about the garment’s ethical production. However, Millennials often gravitate towards designed products with prominent logos while ignoring the origin and production process. Gen Z is more environmentally conscious, recognising the long-term impact of their choices. 

This pattern repeats throughout (WGSN Insight Team & Laura Saunter, 2021), confirming Gen Z’s awareness of their environmental footprint as consumers. As 90% of Gen Z consumers seek transparency in businesses’ environmental and ethical commitments, it’s imperative for companies to openly communicate their policies, in hope of attracting conscious Gen Z shoppers. 

Victoria’s Secret presents a notable case of a brand that has successfully transformed their approach towards diversity and inclusion. Vogue reports (C.Allaire, 2023) that despite its former image of empowering women, Victoria’s Secret has faced allegations of mistreatment and discrimination against its employees and models, at the same time reluctant to diversify model selection. Such practices could be interpreted as discriminatory. However, the brand has undergone a significant transformation, as Vogue (I.Kim, 2023). Victoria’s Secret partnered with Mindy Scheier, the founder of Runway of Dreams, during New York Fashion Week, emphasising diversity and inclusion. Recognising the challenges of creating sensory-friendly lingerie, the brand’s team designed products that combined comfort and aesthetics, tailored to meet the needs of individuals with disabilities. The positive reception to this line is evident as it has received an enthusiastic response from press, sponsors, and the adaptive community. 

Authenticity is a key component of a successful brand, as highlighted by (Newsroom 2019). According to UK consumers between the ages of 16 and 24, a successful company must prioritise customer care, offer a diverse and appealing clothing selection, remain true to its core values and prioritise employee well-being. The majority of individuals in the 16-24 age bracket believe that fashion advertising must include ‘realistic people,’ and 58% believe that this inclusivity must include people of diverse body types. This underscores the importance of authentic representation in the fashion industry. 

Reference List: 

C.Allaire, (2023), The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show Is Coming Back – The Internet Is Divided, https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/victorias-secret-fashion-show-returns-2023, Accessed: 14/10/23 

E.Spagnuolo, “Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of shopping” The McKinsey Podcast, (2020), https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping, Accessed: 13/10/23 

I.Kim, (2023), Victoria’s Secret Makes Its Adaptive Fashion Debut on the Runway of Dreams During NYFW, https://www.vogue.com/article/victorias-secret-makes-their-adaptive-fashion-debut-on-the-runway-of-dreams-during-nyfw, Accessed: 14/10/23 

[Figure 1] H. Moon, Vivienne Westwood: Youth is Revolting, Accessed: 15/10/23, [Online] Available: https://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/article/40262/1/vivienne-westwood-activists-protesting-punk-activism-interview 

Newsroom, (2019), Generation Z want to see authenticity in their fashion brands, but what does this mean? Marketing Communication News, https://marcommnews.com/generation-z-want-to-see-authenticity-in-their-fashion-brands-but-what-does-this-mean/, Accessed: 15/10/23 

WGSN Insight Team & L. Saunter, (2021), Gen Z Spending: Value & Values, https://www.wgsn.com/insight/article/91681, Accessed: 14/10/23 

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The Four Pillars : Planet

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The four pillars of sustainability are people, profit, purpose and planet. As fashion brands operate, these pillars ensure that ethical and environmental practices are considered, while profit is still taken into consideration. This blog will shed light on environmental and planet issues within the fashion industry. 

As mentioned in the dictionary of fashion, the circular economy is a sustainable approach to help prevent unnecessary waste. The goal of this economic system is to eliminate production waste from finite resources by recycling and reusing textiles instead of disposal. (Keiser, S. 2022). 

Many people have some idea of what sustainability means in relation to fashion. Ideas that often come to mind when thinking of this term are overproduction, textile waste, toxic chemical use in clothing and third-world labour in poor conditions. Despite what consumers think they know; the topic of sustainability is also much broader than people may realize. The four pillars summarise the main important aspects of sustainability. (Mitterfellner, O. 2023) 

Fashion is one of the most socially exploitative and resource-polluting industries in the world. Many people are still unaware of the damage this industry causes to our environment, as many fashion companies have mastered the art of covering the dark secrets behind their clothing. Statistics around clothing waste are generally shocking: although clothing production has doubled over the past 15 years, people are wearing fewer clothes, either keeping them with tags still on or throwing them away without thinking about the consequences. These actions result in over 75% of the 53 million tonnes of textiles produced worldwide each year being discarded during the production process and after consumer use.   

Considering a more positive viewpoint, in the 12th STG it was mentioned that more companies are reporting on their efforts to improve sustainability. Trends towards sustainability reporting have increased, with around 70 percent of monitored companies publishing sustainability reports in 2021 which is triple the percentage from 2016. Companies are becoming increasingly inclined to reveal their policies concerning water and energy, CO2 emissions, occupational health and safety, as well as board diversity. This shift towards better sustainability reporting represents a positive advancement, signalling an expanding recognition of the importance of prioritizing sustainable practices across various industries. 

Bibliography: 

Gwilt, A. (2020). A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. London: Fairchild Books. 

e-book: https://libsearch.arts.ac.uk/cgi-bin/koha/opac-detail.pl?biblionumber=1452042&query_desc= 

Keiser, S. (2022) Circular economy in textiles and apparel. Bloomsbury Fashion Central – Home 

E-book: https://www-bloomsburyfashioncentral-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/encyclopedia-chapter?docid=b-9781501365287&tocid=b-9781501365287-0002448&st=circular+economy 

Mitterfellner, O. (2023) Luxury Fashion Brand Management and sustainability: Unifying fashion with sustainability. New York: Routledge. 

e-book: https://libsearch.arts.ac.uk/cgi-bin/koha/opac-detail.pl?biblionumber=1546849&query_desc=kw%2Cwrdl%3A%20Mitterfellner 

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Celebrating Jean Paul Gaultier : My favourite Fashion Brand

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Celebrating Jean Paul Gaultier : My favourite Fashion Brand

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In the word of luxury fashion, one name that comes to mind is Jean Paul Gaultier, a true fashion icon. This blog will venture through Gaultier’s uplifting persona, his innovative creations and revolutionary career. This will demonstrate why this exuberant designer stands out among other successful and recognisable fashion designers.   

Gaultier was born in the Paris suburb of Arcueil in 1952, where his grandmother, Marie Garrabe, first introduced him to the world of fashion. From a young age, Gaultier expressed his interest in fashion, as he would draw fashion illustrations and send them off to famous couture stylists in the hope of being noticed. Stemming from a modest background demonstrates to his supporters that he is a diligent, self-made creative. This elevates some form of realness about him, which inspires others to also follow their passions and aspirations.   

What sets Gaultier apart from other big designers is his valiant approach to fashion. His garments aren’t just made to be clothes, they’re made to tell stories, challenge society’s norms and reinvent beauty standards. Gaultier quotes “Fashion isn’t art to me, but a representation of somewhat of what’s happening in society.” His use of atypical materials and textiles, such as industrial metal like tin cans, repurposed and distressed denim, rubbish bags and neoprene from wetsuits. The use of these everyday items indicates his distinctive talent to flip ‘rubbish’ into incredible fashion statements.    

Renowned for his dedication to diversity, Gaultier’s runway shows included individuals of all ages, sizes, genders, sexual orientations, and backgrounds. His website contains a page on diversity which states in big bold letters ‘Gaultier Celebrates Differences’. On his website he also proceeds to elaborate on why diversity is important. ‘Jean-Paul Gaultier celebrates all identities and flouts rules and norms, appropriating, transforming and reinventing them. The basis of JPG’s universe: the beauty in difference.’ After all fashion is a form of self-expression and is unique to every individual. Gaultier’s values express how important it is to show the world that everyone is beautiful in their own way.  

Unlike other major fashion designers, Gaultier believes that fashion shouldn’t be exclusive, but accessible to all. We can see this from the vast size range his ready-to-wear collections contain. Gaultier has also collaborated with affordable retailers such as Target to make his clothing accessible to those who may not be able to afford it.  

In a decade where sustainability is at the forefront of everything we do, Gaultier’s practices show commitment to ethical and environmental methods within his company. He has incorporated repurposed vintage garments as well as recycled materials into his collections. Not only is Gaultier conscious of the impact of his garments on the planet, but his fragrances too. In 2021 he set up an economical ‘re-fill and go’ station for fragrances to cut down on the production of glass bottles and plastic. He has also minimised the use of packaging for orders, incorporating recyclable cardboard as the main material used.   

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 1995 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Gaultier’s long lasting impression on the fashion world has been created by his brave attitude to targeting the norms of society. We are shown this by many of his extraordinary eccentric designs such as the corset and cone bra. As seen on celebrities such as Madonna, Kylie Jenner and Niki Minaj.   

In April 1990, Madonna wore the iconic pink conical bra during her Blond Ambition tour. Madonna personally requested Gualtier to design her costumes for the tour. She wrote to him expressing her love for his designs and his humorous take on fashion. “When Madonna first called me in 1989, it was two days before my ready-to-wear show, and I thought my assistant was joking,” said Gaultier in a 2001 interview with the New York Times. Like many of Gaultier’s supporters, Madonna admired his garments for possessing both masculine and feminine characteristics. In a decade where homophobia was normalised, Gaultier’s take on fashion targeted this as well as helping to break down gender stereotypes and push boundaries.  

Gaultier’s undefeatable uplifting attitude, striking designs, dedication to sustainability and commitment to diversity collectively showcase how he is an incredible individual as well as an iconic fashion designer. His story and persistence remind people to follow their passion and persevere with their goals. His career demonstrates the endless possibilities of fashion and self-expression.  

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