Kitty Gray

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people

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The globalization of the fashion industry is leading to not just the devastation of the planet, but the people amongst it. People are the key to fashion; from consumers to designers, or manufacturers to marketers, fashion would not survive if humans did not either. However, if people are the foundation of our society? Why do exploitative practices in the fashion industry continue to persist? ‘”People used to import slaves to their rich countries, but right now we are being enslaved within our own communities, through the globalization of our supply chain,”‘ says Nasreen Sheikh, a former child laborer in Kathmandu. (Ruth Macglip, 21 April 23).  

 
Gen Z, our generation, is ’the Target Audience for Fast Fashion Retailers, which is Consumers Aged 18 to 24.’ Gen z is known for prompting fashion brands to adopt greener, more sustainable practices. ‘Gen Z are called “digital native”— “the first generation to grow up with the internet as a part of daily life.”’ (McKinsey, 2023). The tech savvy generation has emphasized how crucial technology is. Online shopping and bulk buying have been larger than ever. This boom in online shopping quickly congested every link in the supply chain, resulting in workers being exploited and strained. ‘”As garment workers, we become a living machine,” Nasreen sheikh reflected in an interview with fashion revolution ‘, (Ruth Macglip, 21 April 23). Humans are being treated without basic needs: water, acceptable working conditions because of inorganic growth online. Gen Z shoppers prioritize value and affordability. These discounted prices mean cutting costs elsewhere in the supply chain, in this case; wages. ‘85% of textile workers earn below the minimum wage, receiving 2 to 6 cents for every piece of clothing’ (Nicole Levett, no date). As a community, our impulse to buy into fast fashion is contributing to these insufferable condition’s employees in LIC are experiencing. 

A brand responding to diversity is victoria secret. Their recent runway show was inclusive featuring plus-size models, transgender models, and models with disabilities. In the past Victoria secret ‘angels’ have been known as being untouchable, and the true supermodel. ‘“The Tour” is intended to be “the ultimate expression of the Victoria’s Secret brand transformation,” according to a press statement from the company’s head creative director, Raúl Martinez. It offers a more expansive, global take on femininity than the lingerie label is known for,’ (Jacqui Palumbo, September 23). This American brand is becoming to realize that ‘diversity sells. Some consumers are willing to praise this, however some others are not. Social media responses from gen z, are stating ‘it feels cheap’, and ‘fallen angels’. Consumers are seeing past the glazed inclusivity and demanding back the original models that made people feel they could never be them.

For a fashion brand to be successful, they do not necessarily need skills, just morals. The rana plaza disaster in April 2013, killing over 1,134 industry workers. ‘“The workers did not have any say because they were working for minimum wage … and they were not even unionized,” Akhter said. “So, they couldn’t collectively raise the issue (of not returning to work).”’ (Oscar holland, April 23). Factories in Rana Plaza produced garments for the likes of Italian retailer Bennetton and British fast fashion brand Primark. As such, the disaster held a mirror up to the developed world, namely consumers hungry for cheap clothing and Western brands using low-cost production to meet demand.  

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  1. khaled: very good

Planet

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The planet pillar refers to the devastation of the planet. Textiles alone produce 1.2 billion Tonnes of CO2 annually (Katerina Rimarcikova, LCF lecture) and aid significantly to greenhouse gas emissions, accounting for 10% of them (Oxfam, 2019). Not only do textiles fundamentally contribute to the state of the environment, but the use of finite resources such as crude oil, which releases emissions; acid gases such as hydrogen chloride, especially from polyester manufacturing. (Luz Claudio, 2007). From the manufacturing to the disposal of clothes, it is highlighted as the second most wasteful, polluting industry and an infinite lead to the ‘dead’ planet.  

Fashion is currently under a linear fashion model. This means businesses operate with maximum production and consumption. However, regarding the planet’s welfare, a circular economy must be adopted due to the threat of resources and the consumers concern of the environmental impact when purchasing fast fashion. What is a circular economy? – Circular fashion ditches the linear “take-make-waste” model and asks the industry to close the loop on production, including responsible manufacturing, use, and end-of-life for every garment. (madeleine hill, September 2022). “The Ellen MacArthur Foundation describes CE as not reducing negative impacts but representing a systematic shift that builds long-term resilience.” (Gwilt, A 2020 p10). This shows how the journey of responsible practice and reservation of resources was not overnight; it is a process which requires re-establishment of consumers behavior. 

The fashion industry needs redesign. Global pollution and exploitative manufacture create an extensive list of social injustices. However, it has helped popularize sustainability — spotlighting greener products, alarming climate change and moving consumers from fast fashion. To achieve durable, affordable fabrics, 60% of clothing is plastic (UNEP). Globally, its estimated that just 12% of clothes end up being recylced .(Rachel Pells, journalist), with the complex composition it makes it almost impossible to always recycle and without these fibers’ clothes would not have the same properties; it is a challenge.  

The united goals (number 12, Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns) are applicable to the mass amount of over consumption and the patterns in production which need to be prioritized to secure a more environmentally friendly future. To ensure sustainable consumption and production practices, it entails respecting the biophysical boundaries of the planet and reducing global consumption rates to fit with the biophysical capacity. (UN environment program). The key word is to respect the boundaries of the planet; we need to ensure effective use of resources, improve energy efficiency create a sustainable infrastructure, create green and decent jobs, and ensure a better quality of life, before the planet can be saved.  

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